2017年5月15日 星期一

Sailor 1911 Standard / Sailor Profit Standard Demonstrator Fountain Pen Review

I'm switching to English Channel for the first time in this blog, see if I'll be able to meet some new friends around the world.

Here is an idea of my background, while many people in my place(Hong Kong) know me as a large-format photo printing specialist at Trail Studio. I'm also an experienced product designer with engineering & manufacturing knowledge, so I can apply my knowledge when talking about fountain pens. 

It seems to me that fountain pen is a matter of hit-or-miss. Problem is that, tolerance exists in every manufacturing process, it is not noticeable for most products, but is critical for fountain pen nibs, which require high precision as they rely on capillary-action to get the ink flowing. Unfortunately pen manufacturers aren't doing rocket-science, and some problems may have been caused by the handling of retailers as well. Whatever brand of fountain pen may have a good chance to go wrong, it's better to try the particular pen before you buy it, or to buy from nib-meisters who will test and adjust the pen. Or, at least read some reviews before making your purchase. So, here is my contribution to the great community of fountain pens.

Here we go, Sailor is one of the well reputed "big-3" Japanese fountain pen manufacturers, the other 2 being Pilot and Platinum (where is the Driver? Just kidding :D). I didn't care about the Japanese pens in the early days of my pen journey as they look plain and boring, until I acquired some Pilot fountain pens and realized how precise the nibs were and how great the writing experience was.

The Japanese Fountain Pen manufacturers should be well respected because they are the very few contemporary ones who still manufacture their own nibs - the soul of fountain pens. They are able to offer a wide variety of nib options, giving unique characteristics to their pens. To be fair, some of my Japanese pens have issues just like their western counterparts, the gold-nib pen which gave me the most trouble ever, is another popular Japanese Pen, the #3776, I’ve made intensive adjustments to get it work well. Indeed I had worked on about 1/3 of my "branded" fountain pens to get them write well.

Some people consider the Sailor 1911 (as well as whatever black/gold cigar pens) as Mont Blanc knock-off, but to me the 1911 is just another cigar-shaped pens with basic(or classic) constructions. Many online sources suggested that the archetype of black/gold cigar-shape pens is the Sheaffer Balance, first introduced at around 1929 which pre-dated the MB Masterpiece line.

I don't consider the 1911 as MB knockoff, but I can't control what people think. I use my pens in business environments, to avoid confusions or misunderstandings, I'm forced to avoid the black-body 1911. I've been eyeing this demonstrator model for a long while, but a golden-converter was unavailable at the time, the chrome one was a poor match to the gold-trim (same case as the Platinum 3776 Nice), so I didn't pull the trigger until I realized a golden converter is actually available.

Pen Body

This is a 1911S demonstrator, S stands for "standard-size". The Japanese pen was aimed for their own market, so it is a ok for we Eastern people to use it unposted. However, for Western people with larger hands, the “S” should in real-life stands for "short" or "small", and the cap probably has to be posted before use. For a pen of such a small size, the metal piece in the section make this pen heavier than what it appears to be, and make it well balanced either with the cap posted or unposted. Some heft in a small body can mean quality to some people, including me.

I like big pens, but for the 1911 demonstrators, I prefer this 1911S over the 1911L because I love the proportion of the smaller barrel to the inner workings(i.e. the piston converter) - there is not much empty space inside the pen, it's transparent but not hollow, and reminds me this pen is small but practical. In contrast, the internal space of the barrel of the 1911L demo looks a bit wasted to my own taste, it also reminds me the Sailor converter is of low ink capacity and doesn't utilize the advantage of the larger pen body. Anyway, if you’ve big hands, it's better to get the 1911L.

Here comes my biggest criticism – the cap doesn’t post well. It is friction-fit, but the area of contact between the barrel and the cap is extraordinarily narrow, you'll need to press hard to produce sufficient friction and you know you'll scratch the pen very soon. More to the problem, resting your hand not exactly on that narrow ring-of-contact will create a leverage and wobble the cap slightly, that's annoying and is enough to break the friction all in a sudden, the cap may then fall out easily as the tapered barrel can't encase it. I suspect this problem is unique only to the demonstrator model with large single metal cap-ring, as the cap opening is made larger to avoid the metal ring from scratching the plastic (or "precious resin") of the barrel, it looks great but doesn't work well.

Now comes my second complaint about this pen. Many of us get used to flush the section before use, or when changing ink (the maintenance procedure is written in the user manual as well). Unbelievably, doing so is not good for this pen! Water will run through 2 little trenches at both sides of the feed collar (the black plastic part) and trapped inside the clear section if you flush it the usual way. I had to disassemble the pen and wait for 1 or 2 days to have the water evaporate. If ink goes inside this space it will be difficult to wash it out (perhaps try using syringe), and it may stain or corrode the metal, that will be ugly. I guess the best way to clean the pen is to keep the converter attached and soak the water up through the nib, or to flush it with the nib ALWAYS facing upwards.

The pen clip wobbles sideways a bit, not ideal but no big deal. I like the shape of this old-clip far more than that of the "Sigma" or "Mk.ll" version. To me, the clip of the Sigma version looks like a skateboard, and the anchor-shape thing on it is too big and looks "cartoonish". Sorry to say that the new clip design effectively stealth those new Sailor pens from my radar.

For a demonstrator pen, it's always a good idea to display the nib with the use of a clear-enough inner cap. The inner cap of this pen is not spring-loaded like the Platinum#3776, but it's quite elastic and is able to create an air-tight seal, I didn't experience hard-start or ink drying-out even when the pen is left inked for 2+ weeks. The plastic column inside the top of the cap looks like a cap jewel, a nice touch.

Another great feature with demonstrator pen is that, you are able to immediately know how much ink is left and what ink you're using without unscrewing the barrel.

Converter and ink capacity
As mentioned, the ink capacity is low, I didn't actually measure it, by observation the cavity is short and narrow, and ink level drops fast even that I'm not a heavy pen user and the nib is relatively dry. The converter can be dissembled easily by twisting the metal collar, pay attention not to twist it when you operate the piston, otherwise it may lead to ink leakage, I bet you don't like to demonstrate this. It's good to put silicon grease inside of this collar and around the piston knob as a safety measure.

Nib & Feed
The nib art is appealing, it is marked as H-F (hard fine) and writes relatively dry, with some feedback on certain papers. It writes finer than my other japanese fine-nibs. The feedbacky feel is consistent across different writing angle and directions, and since the first day I inked it, this means the nib is well-ground. I've inked it with several J.herbin inks, which all worked well so I didn't try other inks, I'm afraid there'll be flow issues if thicker/more viscous inks are to be used.

It's easily one of the hardest nibs I've ever used, you won't get much line variation unless you press it real hard, but the relatively tapered tip allow the nib to get some barely noticeable "initial spring", I mean, the slit opens very slightly when it touches the paper and then stopped there, not enough to produce noticeable line variation, but sufficient to pour down a bit more ink to produce nice shading. I'm very happy with the performance of this nib.

It seems that Sailor's (fine) nib is well-known for a distinctive feedbacky feel, it somehow feels like writing with a very sharp 2H pencil. It's not my scientific analysis but just theory, the feedback is not produced with any secret recipe, but simply because these factors happen altogether:

1) the tipping material is smaller and it writes finer than the other Japanese "F", it's probably EF by Pilot's standard. It's just not easily noticeable especially as the "initial springiness" widen the line to the other Japanese "F" standard before firmly stops there. 
2) it's on the dry side so it receives less lubrication from ink
3) it's really nail-hard (the "initial springiness" I mentioned isn't noticeable at all) so there's no damping when the nib glides across the paper.

Besides viewing under a loupe, one easy way to distinguish between a good feedbacky nib and a faulty scratchy nib, is to draw a horizontal straight line, then draw again in backward direction, and repeat with lines of other angles. If the nib is significantly scratchier on some lines/directions, chance for a mis-aligned slit or a deformed tip is high.

This is a great c/c demonstrator pen, and for people with big hands, it is especially excel as an EDC pen: small thus handy, with a little bit of heft but not heavy, most importantly it writes really well. It is eye-catching with its crystal clear body and gold trims, and people can easily tell it's a fountain pen - a good tool for fountain pen addicts to reveal their identity! With this pen, you always know how much ink is left so there’s no worry about running out of ink in a sudden - a good feature for an EDC pen as refilling it on-the-go is usually not an option. Unfortunately the cap doesn't post well, and can be a problem for EDC pens in situations like jotting quick notes without a desk, it's still ok if you pay attention, just don't lend the pen to the others with the cap posted.

2017年2月22日 星期三

樂施會的另一次「非洲攝影相展」@Time Square

收到通知, 樂施會將於2月24-27日(星期五六日一), 在銅鑼灣時代廣場地面展覽廳舉行「非洲攝影相展」,展覽的目的是要透過圖片說故事,介紹樂施會的工作,亦介紹非洲人如何積極樂觀地面對生活。

展出之大相正是我們去年於另一展覽所贊助的Harman by Hahnemuhle大相。當時使用了「短期展覽裝裱方式」,如保養得宜,相信一年後作品仍大致完好吧。

順道分享一下去年Oxfam於i-square的展覽花絮。如錯過了上次的展覽而又想了解非洲的生活、看看攝影師們的高水準作品,又或感受一下高品質fine art paper 如何為攝影作品畫龍點睛,更添迫真感,就要留意是次展覽了。以我們所知是次展覽佈置會相對簡約一點。

p.s. 行有餘力的話,請支持樂施會的工作!

Fine Art Quality Photo Printing service by Trail Studio
Enquiry / Ordering Email: enquiry@trailstudio.com.hk
(The large-format photos of this Oxfam's exhibition was produced and sponsored by Trail Studio)
以下是其中一位參展攝影師阿潘的blog: https://www.facebook.com/poonwainang/

2016年12月4日 星期日



#書法展覽 #毛筆書法 #書法班 #三餘書學社 #香港中央圖書館 #藝雅文房用品公司 #文房四寶 #香港書法 #書法學會 #書法 #劉學清老師 #中國藝術

2016年10月28日 星期五

J. Herbin 1670 系列新墨水 - Caroube de Chypre

J.Herbin 1670 Caroube de Chypre, 近期推出的新顏色

始創於1670年的法國J.Herbin 是現存最古老
墨水品牌,J.Herbin 原本是名水手,由印度把火漆帶回法國,用自己名字創立品牌



但墨水筆市場是Niche-market, 這招「爛神秘」反而非常成功,加上此墨水的確很迷人,令一眾

由自己公司走到文具店購買墨水不過是一條馬路之隔,此時剛好遇到一位法國熟客前來取相(我們Trail Studio攪高質的相片製作嘛,詳情請點擊此link;浪漫、對美感有要求的在港法國攝影師/發燒友當然也是我們的客戶群之一),於是在公司樓下傾談了一陣子。

未聽過這款墨水……他還問: 這種墨水是否正是替他印相的墨水? 其實是在你的receipt上簽名用的墨水才對,多謝多謝!



2016年10月10日 星期一


(這兩支是Pilot 78G, 是頗便宜的墨水筆, 筆嘴雖稍缺乏"性格", 但很順滑很好寫的) 


工作上常用到墨水筆,有幫襯過Trail Studio製作大相油畫相、印fine art paper 等服務的客戶們可能會留意到阿Ming開的receipts是用墨水筆簽名的。


Q: 原子筆又平又方便,為甚麼仍要用墨水筆?

A: 雖然我不太喜歡使用原子筆,但兩者其實各有好處,何時用哪種筆就是適當地選用不同工具做不同的事情而已。
1. 墨水筆依靠微絲管作用及地心吸力來出墨,只要筆尖接觸到紙張,不需額外用力便能書寫,很省力。原子筆依靠滾珠轉動把油墨帶出,書寫時要些力壓在紙上才能轉動滾珠,尤其長用時較易疲倦。(其實較高檔的原子筆芯,又或走珠筆也很省力的)
2. 雖說墨水筆無需用力書寫,但有些墨水筆nib有彈性,可透過適當用力,使文字線條起粗幼變化,看上去更具美感,更有表達力。
3. 有些墨水筆會配有特殊用途的筆嘴(如italic/flex/zoom/fude/double line等),可以做出很豐富的字體效果。
4. 墨水的顏色、種類亦遠比原子筆豐富,寫出來也常會有sheen(光澤)shading(深淺色)等有趣耐看的視覺效果。
5. 普通原子筆芯不會被筆管套得很緊,因此書寫/繪畫時會感覺到線條有很細微的移位,亦會在落筆時發出「嗒嗒」聲。由於書寫/繪畫的線條本身也很幼(可幼至0.3mm左右),那個"細微"的移位
,與只有0.3mm的線條相比,位移率又不是真的那麼微不足道,尤其對認真的畫家來講(完美主義,說明了Trail Studio的高品質是怎來的了 :p),而墨水筆則沒有此問題。
6.   墨水筆(又或貴價的原子筆)因為能負擔較高的設計及製作成本,產品很多樣化,有不同形狀、重量、筆管粗幼,對不同使用者的書寫體驗(舒適度)有很大影響。這是很個人的,特別貴的筆不一定特別舒適就手,但如果使用一般又幼又輕身的筆時有不就手、易倦的感覺,不防找這類粗身一點的筆試試會否舒適些。

Q:  墨水筆常漏墨、塞墨、出不順嗎

A: 墨水筆與所有產品一樣,在製作時是有工差、不良品的(有機會再講講如何選購墨水筆),不少人的第一支墨水筆都會是較平價的產品,一分錢一分貨,有些平價品牌/型號易出問題,可能因此導致一些人對墨水筆產生不良印象也不出奇。但也有些情況是誤用所致:
1.  墨水筆的墨管很幼,小小的塵埃或生產時殘留的油脂都可能會對其造成阻塞。新買回來的筆,通常用清水加些洗潔精清洗一下nib & feed 會穩當些。切勿用有機溶劑,亦不要把零件浸在水中太久。
2. 存放、攜帶墨水筆時應平放、或筆尖向上。墨水筆夾位於筆蓋,又或是capless筆的筆夾

3.  墨水筆不是任何墨水也可使用的,要認清楚專用的墨水。墨水筆通常使用的是dye ink,缺點是字體不太防水,但萬一乾涸了,清洗很簡易。另有一些墨水筆用的墨註明是pigment ink的,好處是防水(可用來簽重要文件 及 繪畫,因畫線後上色時不化水),但由於乾涸後不再水溶,筆塞了後會很難清潔,甚至要報銷(p.s.也是常見的printer報銷原因)。如不常用筆,應要避免使用pigment ink,間中才需要簽重要文件的話,原子筆的確是較好選擇。再另有些dip pen用的pigment ink/indian ink/calligraphy ink,是不絕應用在墨水筆上的。
4.  一支性能良好的墨水筆,墨水在關筆蓋後最少兩三星期也不會乾涸的,如墨水筆放在一旁一兩星期便乾涸,可能要考慮修理或乾脆放棄這支筆。
5. 如果擁有很多墨水筆,應把近期不用的筆先清洗後收藏。因為有些墨水是有腐蝕性(如iron gall ink),會傷筆的。
6.  把墨水筆帶上飛機使用的話,會易因高空氣壓不同而漏(甚至"噴")墨的,要避免一下(理論上入滿墨水應沒問題但我不求証了)。有些高價vacuum filler墨水筆設有閥門可大減氣壓帶來的問題,但如果不小心錯誤操作,看來還是會發生災難.......

Q: 網上有很多墨水筆的評測blog(主要都是外國的,可靠嗎?

A: 對於判斷一支筆是否適合自己很有參考價值,但卻不一定可靠。我覺得絕大部份blog友的分享是非常中肯的,只是有幾個較少人注意到,卻會影響可靠性的原因:墨水筆就像其他產品一樣,製造時每件產品之間會有「工差」,而墨水是流動性極高的液體,一些細微得肉眼無法分辨的工差會對墨水流動(筆的性能)有所影響。紙、筆、墨的配搭亦會很影響筆的表現,舉例有些人用了與筆不配合的墨水,導致出墨不順,卻誤會是筆的問題。再者,外國流行郵購,用家不能事先檢查後購買,他們遇到的出問題的筆,可能是零售商或托運公司造成的個別損壞。最後,筆並不像一般電子產品般會經常轉款並改用新名稱,相反在長長的產品周期中,可能會在中途更改了些許細節,又或依照舊款原有的所謂「血統」從新設計過,並「承繼」了原有名稱,因此一些外表相似而且名字相同的筆,結構或生產方式可能有很大差異,並不是真正同款筆。看筆的review一定要留意日期,如果相隔了兩三年以上,評測的準確度會減低。

Q: 為何外國的墨水筆blog友常用"the quick brown fox jumps over the lazy dog"來試筆那麼奇怪?

A: 這句特別之處是包含了a-z 所有字母,能以句子的形式測試墨水筆書寫所有常用(英文)筆劃的表現。

Q: 墨水筆通常用extra fine/ fine/ medium/ broad (其實還有很多種類的)去標示筆嘴粗幼,不同廠之間有統一標準嗎?

A: 粗幼是沒有標準的,常見的情況是相同標示的日本筆嘴比多數歐美筆嘴幼一個碼。估計是由於日文(含漢字)結構比英文字母複雜,需要較幼線條之故。留意除了tipping大小外,如果筆嘴很wet(出很多墨)條線易化開,線條自然也較粗。看過有些歐美blog友認為部分日本筆較"dry"(如果說到nib dry得太過份,要留意他是否選了不配合的墨水),我估計其中一個原因是為了寫日文不想字體化開而作的考慮。

Q: 有不少歐美blog友對日本三大墨水筆品牌讚不絕口,真的嗎?

A: 日本三大品牌是Pilot, Sailor Platinum (奇怪,竟然不是driver!)。或許日本與歐美在文化背景、筆商經營模式及理念有分別吧。在墨水筆的黃金時代過後,歐美不少墨水筆廠要麼掙扎求存,要麼關門大吉後品牌(空殻)被其他商家收購以圖再度利用品牌效應獲利,這可從各品牌的拼購中看出。歐美人工高,有些較平價歐美筆要靠代工製造或從其他廠買現成零件(包括筆嘴)組裝來節省成本。反觀日本人對工藝有些堅持(哈,我們Trail Studio也是),又或許他們因文化背景能維持到一定需求可薄利多銷,人工成本又較歐美低,以一支鋼嘴歐美筆的價錢,隨時能購得一支K金嘴日本筆。因此日本筆可謂很抵用,尤其nib有很多好選擇而我呢,老實說,在書寫方便很喜歡pilot(我其中一支Pilot Custom743 FA,以新筆來說,此筆實難找到其他替代品)。但是日本筆的造型⋯⋯在我看來通常都實在太悶太沒特色了,我個人買日本筆只是為了其筆嘴特別而已,針無兩頭利呀。

Q: K金嘴一定比鋼嘴好嗎?

A: 站在豪華感的立場來說是一定的了。但在書寫體驗方面又未必一定。有人說真金是軟金屬,落筆時會有點彈性,舒適些。這通常對,但又不是絕對的。k金不是純金而是合金,合金的軟硬度會視乎其他金屬成份(如銀/銅)而異,筆嘴厚薄及形狀也會影響彈性。舉例說我手邊的Parker Duofold k金嘴簡直是nail-hard的。我亦擁有分別是鋼頭及k金頭的Parker 45, 兩者在彈性方面可謂分別不大。有人說k金頭在書寫時順滑流暢些,但要明白多數筆嘴,真正接觸紙的尖端是有一點堅硬耐磨的iridium tipping的,不銹鋼或k金都沒有真正與紙接觸,k金磨擦時順一點的說法不太成立。而我兩支同nib-grade Parker 45比較,鋼嘴那支反倒較暢順,我相信這個例子可以說明流暢與否,有時與打磨的關係較大。當然,我會相信金筆嘴因物料貴,製作打磨時也會特別小心;不銹鋼筆嘴則易出現較多粗製濫造的情況。我間中會買到有點刮紙的筆,改善方法就是自行修正,打磨一下,之後當然是掂晒啦,哈哈!


2016年5月8日 星期日


有一次,有一位醫生找我們訂製油畫相,雙方都用了非常專業的語調、聲線來溝通 (直接講,大家都chok了少少聲線 ),一下子很難認出這位客戶是誰。慢慢,Ming開始有種似曾相識的感覺。對方把file email過來時便肯定,果然是他!
他是Ming中學時的同窗兼羽毛球校隊戰友 - 現在是少數由香港派出去的無國界醫生,陳健華醫生。
陳醫生沒有使用facebook,時間洪流令我們失聯了一段時間,久別重逢當然要相約共膳,聽他說說無國界醫生工作。他就是淡淡然地說出一些我們大多數人都不會有的經歷。只是,我越聽則越意識到他那件不只是件艱辛的義服工作,而是一件要千山萬水去主動乘受別人生離死別之餘,更是隨時連自己「命仔」也要輍出去的義務救援工作 - 「能力越大、責任越大」應該就是他的想法。
最近,在公仔箱內看到了由他講解的無國界醫生籌款呼籲,特此分享一下,向陳醫生說聲佩服 及 萬事小心。

2016年5月5日 星期四

新的小米手機 - 小米5 香港發佈!

小米推出新手機, 影相非常不錯呀!

夜景掂, 少noise放大印出來都好得, 四角成像好OK! 鏡頭成像變形又控制得好! 印到大大張都有足夠sharpness! 點解阿Ming咁清楚? 因為小米5香港發佈會, 用來show-off 部新機畫質的DEMO相, 都係交由我地Trail Studio印製的嘛~ 由睇monitor到睇print-out, 對住大把時間慢慢睇清睇楚啦 :p

這輯相片是由著名中國攝影師趙嘉先生 以小米5 拍攝的。感謝策劃是次發佈會的Teresa Creation識得揀,揀我地做print out此重要一環。負責人Teresa本身是一位由美國回港工作的影像專家及計師及攝影師 (哈, 同Ming一樣都是多重身份的 ^-^v) , 當然清楚知道有要求的相片輸出工作, 其實是很專門的。

有些人可能會問, 為甚麼相片用不同角度觀賞都沒有反光的呢?
考慮到這是發佈會, 如果使用常見的光面/半光面相紙來製作這批print-out, 各路人馬在兵荒馬亂、閃燈橫飛的情況下隨時會拍出一幅幅大反光的printout回去交差, 那又如何能令讀者明白此機的真正拍攝實力? 因此, 是次的printout是採用一種很優質的不反光fine art paper來製作的。 

順帶一提, 曾有少量查詢者會認定印出來的相片是一定會反光的, (抱歉說, 別再誤以為家附近隨便找家沖晒店就能輕易做到專業品質好嗎?) 看見類似的高畫質返拍SAMPLE相後, 竟懷疑我們在KEY圖造假。我們也常見到別人的key圖。但是我們Trail Studio一向真材實料, 根本不需要, 更是懶得花時間造假 - 其實key圖也很花功夫的, 那些造假的...有頭髮的話我猜他們都不會想做癩痢吧 :p

UNWIREHK 對小米5的介紹:

Teresa Creation (是次發佈會的壽劃者)http://teresacreation.com/

The Wave (是次發佈會的場地提供者)https://www.facebook.com/thewavehongkong
(這是個很好很前衛的Workspace平台, 有志創業的設計師/攝影師不妨留意一下The Wave的服務。感謝The Wave 的Associate Director帶了小弟繞場一周參觀)

Trail Studio Professional Photo Printing & Framing Service, HK.http://www.trailstudio.com.hk/Servi…/Output/Photooutput.html
Our Scope of Service: Large Photo Printing Service, Canvas Printing Service, Fine Art Paper Printing Service, Image editing service etc.

2016年4月12日 星期二

Kaweco 墨水筆 - Classic Sport Eyedropper Pen

在早陣子的文章: http://minglau.blogspot.hk/2016/02/kaweco.html 提過我在工作上常常要用不同的筆,分享了一個我喜歡的品牌 - 德國的KAWECO。又提過KAWECO CLASSIC SPORT FOUNTAIN PEN 其中一個好玩之處,是可以改成EYEDROPPER PEN來用。

( 事先聲明,我對KAWECO的喜愛,已令我們公司可以出售KAWECO的產品,這是原本作為用家的我從前沒想過的。但由於人手有限,我們暫時只為熟客提供訂

甚麼是EYEDROPPER PEN呢? 中國古老的筆,是毛筆
(順便賣賣廣告,我們這裡亦有售一些精品毛筆: http://www.musicandarts.com.hk/ 可致電21856050 向陳小姐查詢;真•熟客們想訂購Kaweco 筆的話,直接致電28776681找我反而會好一些,因為我較為熟悉此品牌:p)
而西方古老的筆種, 叫DIP PEN,與毛筆一樣是要沾墨水書寫的。由於DIP PEN太不方便,有人想到把墨水藏於筆桿之中慢慢滲出,發明了FOUNTAIN PEN。

早期的FOUNTAIN PEN上墨方式很原始: 把筆管扭開,再用滴眼藥水的滴管(EYEDROPPER)把墨水直接滴進去,EYEDROPPER PEN因而得名。

墨水筆有多種不同的分類方式,其中一種是按填裝墨水的方式來分類的,EYEDROPPER PEN就是按這種分類方式的其中一類。現在在此分類下的最常見類型是 CARTRIDGE PEN (現代版KAWECO SPORT 的上墨方式),即是使用用完即棄的支裝墨水。

扮一扮專家:在墨水筆的黃金歲月裡,有很多很有趣的上墨方式,例如: LEVER、VACUMATIC、AEROMETRIC (KAWECO SPORT 可以另配一個膠囊 CONVERTER來填墨,這種方式可歸類為AEROMETRIC)、PISTON FILLER、PLUNGER、BUTTON FILLER、CRESCENT FILLER....還有不少很冷門又或是很失敗的上墨方式......說到這裡我想提一提我的多重身份之一 - 我本身是名不折不扣的產品設計師。研究這些操作原理對於產品設計師來說是件很有趣的事,墨水筆看似很簡單,卻埋藏著很多很有趣的學問,或許是我特別喜歡FOUNTAIN PEN的原因之一。如果日後能抽空,我還是會找機會攪產品設計的,而「筆」肯定是我其中一個設計目標。

設計嘛......除非有各種好條件去投資自己品牌(機會成本實在太高了),否則在香港......設計是做頹人的繪圖服務業而非創意產業,so sad。現在很少人知道我是設計師了 (有客戶稱我是「油畫相製作師」,哈哈我自己也不知有這麼一種「師」! ) 但話說回來,我們一張張裝裱好的大相、油畫相,不也是一件講求美感的產品嗎?

說得太遠了(實在太久沒時間寫BLOG去抒發感受),是時候說回這次主角 EYEDROPPER PEN。

EYEDROPPER PEN因有不少缺憾,才會被其他REFILLING MECHANISMS取代。不過,作為喜歡使用墨水筆的人,很易被透明的EYEDROPPER PEN所吸引 - 看著不同顏色的墨水在筆桿內流動是一種樂趣,尤其是淺色墨水的透澈感,或混有金屬微粒的墨水的反光很令人心動!

不過不是所有透明的筆也適合用作EYEDROPPER PEN的:筆桿有開孔的不適合 (有些筆的開孔很少不易察覺);有金屬零件(包括筆桿本身)與墨水長期接觸的亦不適合,墨水可能與一些金屬產生化學反應,使其變質。而透明的KAWECO SPORT(透明CLASSIC SPORT及ICE SPORT)正是又平(以墨水筆來說)又靚又好用的EYEDROPPER PEN之選。


1. 準備一支膠製KAWECO SPORT(或其他合適的墨水筆)、一支滴管及一盒SILICON GREASE(可在潛水用品店找找,但由於此筆價值不高,又沒有HARD RUBBER/EBONITE物料,我乾脆順手拿了一般不建議的PETROLEUM JELLY來充一充算了)

2. 把支裝墨或CONVERTER拆走

 3. 在SECTION的螺紋處塗SILICON GREASE防漏(我塗PETROLEUM JELLY算了,但長久用可能會溶橡膠的,貴筆勿用!)。不塗也不一定漏墨,但這支筆是我的隨身物品,穩當些好。

4.用滴管上墨。沒有滴管可用飲管代替 - 把飲管插進墨水後用手指塞住開口後再抽出。

5. 直接滴入筆桿 (用飲管的話鬆開手指便可以)

6. 要很小心不要倒瀉墨水! (一手拿dropper一手拿筆桿比較穩當,為方便拍攝,這次筆桿用「寶貼萬用膠」作暫時固定)

 7. 組合,完成!

最後提一提使用EYEDROPPER PEN一些要多加注意的地方:
a. 較易漏墨 (KAWECO SPORT筆蓋大,能保護筆桿,也是一大好處)
b. 入墨時一不小心很易弄污地方
c. 墨水容量看似很大,但當筆桿內有太多空氣時,氣壓會使墨水筆出墨不穩定。空氣冷縮熱漲的程度比液體高,如手掌較熱而把筆桿內的空氣也加熱,墨水可能會被迫出來。因此,餘下一半墨水時便應REFILL了 - 可用容量只得實際容量一半。


TRAIL STUDIO professional photo printing & framing service